Olympus PEN E-P7 and OM-D E-M10 Mark IV compatible with Profoto Air Remote O-TTL?

Silberne Olympus PEN E-P7 liegend

The Swedish flash manufacturer is one of the world-famous. Their studio flash systems are high-quality, very reliable and could be triggered remotely. With Air Remote TTL they have a remote control that can control the light amount via TTL. This makes the studio flash photography much easier than before and speeds up the workflow in the studio. In addition, it is easier to operate studio flash systems.

Official compatible Olympus products

On the Profoto website following Olympus cameras are compatible:

  • OM-D E-M1X
  • OM-D E-M1 Mark III
  • OM-D E-M1 Mark II
  • OM-D E-M1
  • OM-D E-M5 Mark III
  • OM-D E-M5 Mark II
  • PEN-F

On the list are only high-grade cameras, which have as target group professional photographers in mind. Makes sense as those cameras are bought by poeple, who are very interested in photography and therefore most properly are using them also in the studio.

What about the PEN E-P7 and the OM-D E-M10 Mark IV

Recently Olympus released its own system to remote control their system flashes, which controls the flash intensity via TTL. The PEN E-P7 and OM-D E-M10 Mark IV are the first entry-level cameras that support this system. The basic requirements for this system are surely similar to the ones of Profoto. Therefore I just tested it. Air Remote TTL-O connected to the camera and set to TTL. Flash switched on and put to full power. The camera pointed to a white wall and released. Lo and behold, the settings of the flash are automatically reduced and the white wall is taken neutral grey. Seems that both cameras are working with the Air Remote TTL-O.

Are both cameras compatible now?

No, they aren’t. As long as the cameras are not on the official Profoto website staged, they are not compatible. It is possible that the cooperation with the Air Remote TTL-O no longer works at any time. For example when one of the firmware versions will be updated and the communication with the Air Remote TTL-O will be adjusted. On this occasion, you don’t have any possibility to complain that the cameras have to work. In addition cover my short test, not all functions, which has to be covered to be compatible. For example, it could be that the high-speed sync is not working or the flashes are not 100% in sync. Therefore I would not recommend buying an Air Remote TTL-O in case you own a PEN E-PL7 or an OM-D E-M10 Mark IV. In case you already own one to use with a compatible camera you also could try it on a PEN E-PL7 or an OM-D E-M10 Mark IV. In case you do, please leave a comment underneath.

Fast selection of images

When using a function like continuous shooting mode, ProCapture or Focus Bracketing you get very fast a lot of images. The SD card gets filled up very fast and not every image is needed. The normal way to delete single images is very time consuming and therefore not helpful. Cameras from the E-M1 series have fortunately a function to easily select many images in a short time.

1. Press the replay button to see the images on the SD card

2. Use the thumbwheel to switch from the single image view to the thumbnail view.

3. Select the first image, which you would like to select. Press and hold the movie record button.

4. Rotate either the forefinger wheel or thumbwheel to select the other images. You can select up to 200 images.

As soon as you have selected the images you can either delete or mark them as protected or share them with OI.share.

5 Tips to increase battery life

Even so, the modern mirrorless systems nowadays have a decent battery lifetime, that gets you through the day, it can be yours that you get into situations where you must be economical with the remaining energy. I would like to give you a few tips and hand that will enable you to continue working as long as possible.

Tip 1
Use the display not the viewfinder!

Even though the back display of your camera is much bigger than the display in your electronic viewfinder, it needs much less energy. This sounds weird but is logical. The viewfinder has much more pixel and as switching pixels needs energy the viewfinder needs more energy. Besides, the refresh rate of the viewfinder is much higher than the one at the back display. This needs also more energy.

Tip 2
Reduce display brightness!

Once you are using the back display you could optimise the setting. By reducing the brightness of the display you can save additional energy and extend battery life.

Tip 3
Switch of image stabilisation!

Olympus OM-D camera does have fantastic image stabilisation, but to be able to correct movements it needs energy. In case your battery life is at the end you have to decide whether you would still use the image stabilisation or not, but you can shoot some more images.

Tip 4
Switch off Autofocus!

Even though that manual focus in a modern camera is realised by electro motors, you are able to save energy in case you switch off the autofocus. Especially when you are shooting slow-moving object as you just have to set the focus once. The autofocus on the other side is moving the motor every time you half-press the release button. Alternatively, you could use the back button focus method, which uses the AEL/AFL button to activate focus.

Tip 5
Keep your batteries warm!

The capacity of batteries highly depends on the temperature. Working in cold conditions the battery life is much shorter than usual. Therefore I have always one battery close to my body to keep it warm, mostly in my pocket. In case the battery in-camera is dying I can use the one in my pocket.

Four influencing image quality factors of digital cameras

Introduction

In marketing, it is popular to have short and easy messages. Those short messages allow reaching a big target group, as nobody has to study the topic in depth. In the case of photography is this message “the bigger the sensor, the better the image quality.

At the time the first 35mm sensors, with the size of 36x24mm2, arrived in the market the manufactures called this format full-frame sensor. This name suggests to the end-user that this is the biggest available sensor and a clear statement, that the user buys the best available quality. In this communication, it is not mentioned that the sensor is only one of in total of four components, which are relevant for image quality

Beside the sensor three additional components are essentially important for the image quality. Lens, image stabilisation and image processor. How those components influence the image quality I will show with simple examples. I hope my thoughts demonstrate, that in photography sensor size is not the only value which the user should monitor to make the correct decision, if they plan to buy a camera.

The lens

Factors influenced by lens

  • Sharpness
  • Resolution
  • Contrast

The lens is the first element of the image quality chain and therefore the most important. In case your lens is not able to deliver details to the sensor, it is impossible that the result can show the details in the result. Due to the sensor specification, the lens requirements in digital photography are much higher than in analog times. Light rays, for example, should reach the sensor straight. Otherwise light rays which should reach i.e. the red pixel could reach the blue or green pixel. This would cause issues in colour processing, which should be avoided.
In analog time i.e. a 50mm F1.2 lens had 7 lens elements (Minolta Rokkor), today a modern 50mm F1.4 lens (Sony Planar T*FE 50mm F1.4 ZA) has 12 lens elements nearly twice as many. This value shows how big the development in lens technology has been since digital times started. As the lens is the most important element for image quality that some of the photographers invest most of their money in an expensive camera and not in the lens. In case the budget makes this decision necessary personally I would make it vice versa. In the end, you would keep the lens much longer as the camera.

The sensor

Factors influenced by the sensor

  • Sharpness
  • Image noise
  • dynamic range
  • resolution

After the lens, the sensor is the second element in the image quality chain. It has an influence on noise performance, dynamic range, and resolution, which means it influences the sharpness of an image. The sensor size influences the image noise and dynamic range only indirectly, but more in detail now.

Image noise / Dynamic range

If you want to look at the influence of the sensor size on the image noise you first have to make sure that technology improvements do not affect the result. Fortunately, I had a Sony Alpha 6000 and a Sony A7II available. Both cameras were introduced in 2014, so it can be assumed that the sensor manufacturing technology is the same. Also, both cameras have an identical number of pixels with 6000×4000 pixels. To find out how the results differ, I took a picture with both cameras, with the same lens and the same settings. The result looks like this.

Alpha 6000, ISO 25600
A7 II, ISO 25600

Even in the preview, you can see that the A7 II has a larger dynamic range than the Alpha 6000. This is especially noticeable in the mouth. If you look at an enlarged section, it quickly becomes clear that the A7 II is less noisy.

Alpha 6000, ISO 25600
A7 II, ISO 25600

It seems that the connection between sensor size and lower noise is confirmed and therefore most of the testers stop at this point with the comparison. But is really the truth? As the A7II as a function with which you can switch the area from 35mm format to APS-C format. In case the sensor size would have an effect this should be visible in images taken in this way. Let’s take a look at the comparison pictures.

A7 II APS-C setting, ISO 25600
A7 II 35mm format, ISO 25600

As you can see the dynamic range is identical in both images, but what is the image noise.

A7 II APS-C setting, ISO 25600
A7 II 35mm format, ISO 25600

Also, the noise is identical. Sensor size could not be the reason, that the noise performance of the Alpha 6000 higher is than the one of the A7 II.
The reason is the pixel size itself. As the Sony Alpha 6000 has the same pixel count on a smaller sensor area, the pixel itself is smaller, or in other words: the pixel density is higher. It isn’t as easy as it looks. The sensor size is no parameter for more or less noise performance, this has to be seen in conjunction with the pixel count.
The pixel size of an APS-C camera with 24 million pixels is equal to the pixel size of a 35mm format camera with 54 million pixels. Would I compare those cameras the noise performance would be identical.